Exploring Food as Culture

Drinks at Haddingtons in Austin, Texas

My husband and I have a modern mixed marriage. My husband cares a great deal about food, while I do not.

Much to my surprise, I am one of those people who goes through the day forgetting to eat. I literally have an alarm on my phone reminding me to eat lunch, though sadly that usually doesn't work. 

If I lived alone—or if my husband cared a lot less about food—I would have peanut butter sandwiches every night. If he didn’t cook, I would store sweaters in my vintage oven.

Since I do not live alone, I often end up in some of the city’s best dining rooms.

While I appreciate a good meal that someone else cooks, there is no way that I can write about food the way that most writing about food is done.

However, I spent a long time as a theater critic. I write about culture and society. For a while I’ve been toying with the idea of sharing what passes through my brain when I go out to eat.

This morning, I came across a passage in Sam Sifton’s account of his two years spent reviewing restaurants for The New York Times:

All criticism is argument. Mine has been from the start that restaurants are culture, and that there is no better perch from which to examine our shared values and beliefs, behavior and attitudes, than a seat in a restaurant dining room, observing life’s pageant in the presence of food and drink.

 

Inspired by Sifton, I am going to make more of an effort to write about the fancy restaurants that I often end up in. I will not be writing about the food—you can get better food writing from a Yelp review than you can get from me—but I will make the effort to cover the culture from a dining chair.

If you want a drink like the one in the picture, head to Haddingtons.
Their grub is way better than a peanut butter sandwich.